Glue and Fillers
A model is only as strong as its joints. Plastic model adhesive does the quiet work of every build, with a glue for every job and filler for the gaps. Get the bond right and the paint gets a fair chance.
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Plastic model adhesive: pick the glue by the job
Tubes of Humbrol poly cement cover most builds, suiting the larger sections where a strong bond matters more than a delicate touch. One near-neighbour worth knowing: Humbrol Clearfix is a decal fixer rather than an adhesive, and it lives with weathering. Small parts and drying time go together, so a holding hand from the modelling tools range earns its keep here.
Model filler for the seams that shouldn't show
Where two halves meet, a seam follows, and filler is how it disappears. Work it into the gap, let it cure, sand it back level, and a pass of primer will tell you honestly whether the joint has gone. Then it's over to Humbrol acrylic paint, with everything else under modelling supplies.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the best glue for plastic models?
Poly cement is the workhorse: it's made for polystyrene, and a tube handles everything from fuselage halves to the fine and fiddly, applied sparingly so the joint stays clean. Every starter set includes glue, so a first build is covered before you've bought anything separately.
What does model cement do that ordinary glue can't
It's made for polystyrene: model cement works on the plastic itself, bonding kit parts in a way a general-purpose glue can't match, which is why it's sold alongside the kits rather than in a stationery aisle. Household glues are a compromise the finished model will show.
When do you need model making filler?
Whenever a joint leaves a gap you can see: fuselage halves, wing roots, hull seams. Fill, cure, sand smooth, and check under primer before painting. On a well-fitting kit you may barely need it, but the tube in the drawer is what separates a good join from a visible one.